Day 65 - In the lock-up

I woke with the sunrise, after a surprisingly restful night.  Must have been the sounds of the waves giving me a good night’s sleep. I was rather keen to freshen up and we had been told there was a public toilet somewhere in the township. So, looking somewhat bedraggled, we made our way down the hill track along the road through the shacks.

It was interesting to see the variety of shacks in Trial Bay, which ranged from a few pieces of rusty corrugated iron loosely tacked together to a two story solid brick home with full wrap-around verandas and a lookout to the stars. There were some fascinating history boards down at the bay which listed all the shipwrecks and fisherman lost in this wild section of Tassie shore. With no other signs of life, we let the pups run free on the soft sandy beach. They were so happy, chasing each other in crazy circles and having lots of new things to sniff along the beach. A bit further along we saw an older man with a rather boisterous collie-type dog and we ended up having a nice chat. He let us know there were some great rock formations further down, including one called ‘the seat’ which had great views. We had a great time scrambling up and over the rocks, including the pups who were quite fearless.

The Bandycoot taking in the view at Trial Harbour

 

When we got back to the bay, we found the toilet rolls that we had left on the park bench were now floating high on the wild wilds like streamers. We managed to reel them back in for future use. As we made our way back through the township to our camp. The gentleman we met at the beach (Ian) saw us and invited us to come in for a cuppa. The invitation was like manna from heaven to have a soul warming cuppa in their cozy shack. He and his wife Pamela shared some lovely stories with us, while managing to keep their big pup restrained as he was keen to play with Jazz and Indie but they were somewhat less inclined. After thanking them for their hospitality and then calling in on the way back through to top up all our water bottles with their fresh rain water, we hit the road again headed for south to Strahan.

We fell in love instantly with this sweet, historic town. With a fabulous main street of colonial buildings overlooking a beautiful wide harbour. With both myself and the Bandycoot starting to feel a strong desire for a hot shower and a proper bed, we decided to book a cottage for the night. It was a bit of a luxury, but we ended up in the original Police Constable’s cottage (which included the old holding cells) now converted into quality tourist accommodation. The managers there were very hospitable getting the fireplace warmed up for us and even donating a bottle of wine to help us enjoy our stay (and keep warm!). I’m not a drinker but the Bandycoot enjoyed getting cosy by the fire with a glass or two. I was pleased to find it had a great big spa bath and really enjoyed having a good soak. It was a lovely timber cottage, but for some reason the pups just couldn’t settle down and kept wanting to out into the garden stay there. I wonder if they were picking up on any of the old police/prisoner vibes from days gone by.

The old Police Constables cottage

We did a big walk right around the harbour on dusk, watching all the lights come on around the bay. We had heard there was a decent pub at the other end of town and wanted to go out and celebrate, as I’d just got news that I had successfully passed the final course in my postgraduate study. Yay!! It was quite a long walk, but just on sunset we passed a small park that led to a waterfall. We figured we had time to get in and out before dark, but the further we got in the larger trees cast a big shadow and it was hard to see where the path was taking us and it got very spooky. The waterfall was lovely though the spray coming off was icy and it was too dark to capture it in a photo. As I have no night vision, the Bandycoot (my boyfriend) had to lead me all the way back to the park gate. Even the rest of the walk around the harbour to the pub (and back home) had few lights and we relied on passing cars and our phones to light the path. I had the most amazing piece of fresh caught trout which rounded out another wonderful day.

Strahan Harbour

Day 64 - On Trial

Today the adventure continued down a wild and scenic road known as the Western Explorer which joins the north and south ends of the Tarkine.

It’s a lonely drive (we only saw one other vehicle) through bushland and rocky mountain ranges (with me singing ‘Rocky Mountain High’ most of the way). Apparently this dirt highway a bit of locals’ secret.  Large swathes of bush and trees showed signs where they had been burned by the wild bushfires earlier this year. With no traffic around, the Bandycoot (my boyfriend) allowed the pups to ride up on his lap and look out the window. They were intrigued by the smells and scenes that we drove through, along the track which cuts through the world’s largest remaining stretch of temperate rainforest.

Pups enjoying the view

First stop along the way was at a place that Tasmanians call the Edge of the World. It's a short boardwalk that takes you to the western most point of the island. It was incredible to look down over the big swells filled with logs that had been washed downstream in the floods. Also, to think if you started swimming out from that point, where would you end up? Maybe South Africa?? It would be a long way away!

The edge of the world...!

The Bandycoot and the pups

 

At the end of the road is the settlement of Corinna, which is like being transported back to a different time. We didn’t realise it was an old colonial mining town which had been restored and the old huts and cottages are now traveller accommodation. We did a short walk into the rainforest before deciding that we would like to camp here on one of the wooden platforms on the edge of famous Pieman River. We went to book in at the pub, only to discover that the whole township is pet-free. It is apparently part of the agreement between the company that now owns the township and the Parks and Wildlife Department, as the whole area is natural reserve. With a quick change of plans, we caught the last barge of the day across the Pieman River and were back on the road.

We drove on to Trial Bay Harbour, a place recommended by the surfer family we met at Green Point. After a quick take-away stop to make sure we had enough drinking water, it's apparently very remote, we made our way down the windy road to Trial Bay in the dark. It’s amazing we found it, as there was no signage along the way and the road spit several times. After driving down the only road there, we realised it was a shack township, something we’ve only really seen before in Tasmania.

We made our way up to the free camping space on a rocky and washed out track. Thank goodness for Brutus! We were high above the water on a cliff edge and could hear the waves smashing into the rocks below. The ground was soggy and large trees loomed over us like ancient guardians in the dark. The Bandycoot, champion that he is, set up the campsite and cooked us all a BBQ dinner on the back of his ute, as I was pretty much exhausted by this point. There was no-one else at the campsite and in the quiet we heard wildlife rustling in the bushes, and later nibbling on the pups' crunchies that I had left outside when we were sleeping in the swag.  

Day 63 - Wild west

The west coast is calling. We’ve heard that landscape in Western Tassie is quite different to the green rolling hills around the Old Dairy. So we’ve packed up the pups and loaded the swag and camping gear onto the Bandycoot’s ute (Brutus) and hit the road, due west.

We stopped off at Smithton for a lunchtime snack and also managed to find a couple of camping chairs at an op shop (thrift store) for $2! We had hoped to get to Tassie’s most north-western point, known at Cape Grimm (which must have quite an interesting story behind it). We followed the road until it became little more than dirt country tracks until we reached a locked gate – ‘Private Property’ – and we could go no further. Apparently you need to go on a guided tour to see that part of Tassie, which is a shame for spontaneous explorers such as us. All along that distant coastline are huge wind turbines on wind farms as far as the eye can see.   

Wind farms at Cape Grimm

 

The lady at the Smithton op shop had mentioned there was a beautiful free camping site right on the beach at Marrawah. We found it easily enough down at a surfing break known as Green Point. Incredibly, in the middle of this Tassie winter, there were serious surfers down there checking the swell. We scoped out the camping grounds which looked ideal, a lovely green grassy patch on a slight rise overlooking the magnificent ocean, but decided we had enough daylight to explore a bit further. We then went on down a rough track to check out the wild and smashing waves at Bluff Hill Point.

Wild surf and driftwood at Bluff Hill Point

 

We set up the swag at Green Point and with the mini-explorer pups, went climbing over the rocky point overlooking piles of rubbery kelp.

The Bandycoot setting up our accommodation

Adventure pups fearlessly climbing in the rocks

We fired up the BBQ in the nearby park and soaked up a stunning sunset over the waves.

Sunset over the West Tassie coast

We met a family that were travelling around Tassie on a surfing trip and they hoped to head out surfing the next morning. We spent a cold but beautiful night under vast twinkling of stars, with only the sounds of waves breaking on the sandy shore as we all snuggled in the cozy swag to stay warm.

The Jazzie monster checking out the view

 

Day 62 - Turbo chook

The recent trip to Waratah seems to have given the pups a bit more confidence in the water. At my previous home on the coast in Queensland, whenever I took them to the beach they would run away in fear from the waves. Sometimes at the river mouth they would wade in and try and chase the tiny fishes in the clear water.

On our daily stroll around the paddocks, we saw a Tasmanian native hen just on the edge of a small dam on the Bandycoot’s Nan’s farm. Jazzie and Indie spotted it straight away and took off chasing the hen (aka turbo-chook) in to the long grass around the dam. We heard a splash and saw Jazzie jump in the smelly dam water in hot pursuit of the hen, which was already swimming. But not for long as it took off down the back paddock with a couple of barking pups trying desperately to keep up. The hens are really fast! We knew the pups couldn’t get far, as they can’t get through the tiny squares of the wallaby fencing.

After about a minute, we heard some strange sounds that we weren’t sure if they were being made by the pups or the hen. Closer inspection saw Jazzie at the wallaby fence whining to get through. We thought the turbo chook would be long gone, but low and behold it makes another run back to dam. It’s game on again with the pups, but as soon as they get in the long grass there is no sign. They sniff and splash and weave their way up and down the bank trying to work out where it’s gone. We literally have to carry them out, wet, whining and smelly, to get them back on the path. Looks like someone’s getting a bath once we get home!

Day 61 - Ghost towns and freezing falls

Today we took a drive to Waratah, which is a bit over an hour south. We had considered moving there when we decided to come to Tassie as it looked like we’d be able to find a decent property quite cheap. After a quick drive around this tiny town, it soon became clear why properties were readily available, it is almost a ghost town. The whole time there we only saw one other vehicle driving around and did not see a single soul out on the streets.

We took a walk with the pups up the gravelly path to the old mine lookout. The mine is right on the edge of the town, as the township sprung up after the mine opened back in the 1800s. It has long since closed and there doesn’t seem to be any other shops or any type of industry in the area. There is a stunning waterfall that the original miners used to power the hydro for the mine. There is a lot of history here around early explorers and optimistic mining ventures.

Waratah Falls

A rich history

In the centre of town is a huge park with a large lake and lots of birds strolling about. Despite the near freezing temperatures and the almost constant drizzle, we let the pup out for a run. They were having a wonderful time running about and trying to sneak up on the birds in the park. We did a full lap around the park, losing feeling in our extremities in the process, mostly because the pups had a real fear of walking over the metal bridge that crossed the quickly flowing water running out of the lake. We were walking back to the car when I turned just in time to see Jazzie easing herself down into the freezing lake water (still wearing her coat) in an attempt to surprise the wood ducks paddling there. I was shocked that she would even go into the water when it was so cold. Back in the car I gave them both a good towel down and turned up the heater for them (and me too!).

Jazzie exploring the park

As the day was still young, our exploring took us further down the road until we found ourselves at the start of the walk to Montezuma’s Falls. We were pleasantly surprised to see that the walk was dog friendly but were concerned with taking the pups as the walk is 8kms return, and they’d never walked that far before and already had two walks today! We made our way through some beautiful Tassie rainforest and it was a fantastic walk along an old mining tramway, though very damp from recent rainfall. Montezuma’s Falls is one of Tassie’s highest at 104m with a large volume of water flowing down. To get the best view of the falls you have to walk across a very, very narrow metal suspension bridge with a huge drop down to the fast flowing waters below. Knowing that the pups wouldn’t walk across, the Bandycoot and I had to carry one each very carefully and hold on to the swinging bridge with the other hand. It was quite scary, as I knew if they squirmed they would be gone and no getting them back.

The pups on their biggest walk ever!

The Bandycoot crossing the scary suspension bridge

Majestic Montezuma Falls

 

Immediately below the falls is the viewing platform, but there was so much spray that it was like taking an icy shower, so we didn’t linger long even though the view was spectacular. Also the daylight was fading and we still had to powerwalk out to get back to the car before dark. Indie really started to tire and had to be carried by the Bandycoot for short sections. But the pups managed to do their biggest walk for them ever and I sensed a little bit of a tired but proud strut as we made it back to the warm car. Needless to say they slept all the way home.

 

Day 60 - Reaching out to the community

Today I worked at a community event happening at the local community hall. It was a great chance to meet some of the other people who live down this road. It’s quite different when you move to a rural community, as it’s easy to become isolated when you don’t have any close neighbours.

I’m a bit of a people person so it was fun to be chatting to some new people, and hopefully making a few friends or at least people I can say hello to when I’m shopping at Woolies. I did meet an interesting fellow who used to live in this area but has retired in to Wynyard. I discovered that he was the man who installed kitchen and cabinets when the Old Dairy was converted into a house. When I asked him why the sink and benches were made for hobbits instead of humans, he explained that back in the day, new kitchens were built for the person who would be using it the most. This was apparently a very diminutive Italian lady.

It was big day. Getting up and going to the centre before the sun rose was a bit of a shock. I can appreciate that it’s a bit of a luxury, but I’ve become accustomed to waking naturally, not to the sound of the alarm clock. I read somewhere recently that the top 5 areas where people live the longest have a society where people tend to wake up when they like. Who knows? My time in Tassie might just end up giving me a few more years.

I ended up driving home in the foggy darkness too. It’s been a long time now since I spent the whole day away from the Bandycoot (my boyfriend) and pups and I really missed them.

Day 59 - Day in Devonport

Around the time we moved down to Tassie, the Bandycoot was in discussions with a guiding company who were keen to have him on board, if he had guiding qualifications. Today we went to Devonport to find out about study options with TasTAFE. Having worked in the university environment, it was interesting for me to see how they approached their open day. The Bandycoot turned out to be the only potential student for their guiding program. I left him to chat with the instructor and went to find a good coffee place.

I found a friendly little takeaway right across the road that must be popular with the TAFE students. It had been an early start to the day and after the drive over, we were both ready for a boost.

Though neither of us are big shoppers, we found the Devonport mall user friendly though tricky to find a park. I bought myself a new watch, though I’ve been quite happy living watch free for the last few months. I used the birthday $$ my folks were kind enough to send me.

We did a lovely drive right along the Devonport waterfront admiring all the old colonial homes and then we spent the afternoon sitting on a grassy hill overlooking the river and the big ships, dining on some very oily fish and chips.  

Day 58 - Pups go wild

So the puppies have decided that they love it here. I think that they think they’re living in the world’s biggest park and they have it all to themselves, except for the alpacas and an occasional visit from the spritely spaniel next door Lassie.

Playing with Nan's dog Lassie

This afternoon after I arrived home from quick visit to town to pick up a few parcels (yay! My thermals arrived.) I opened the backdoor to find two very excited pups, jumping and dancing around, as if to say ‘are we going on our walk yet?’. I could hear the Bandycoot (my boyfriend) down in the back corner of the farm with the chainsaw and they were very eager to get down and see what he was up to. Once I’d dropped my bags and put on some outdoor shoes, we were off. Literally. The pups took off like pocket rockets, as if they were in hot pursuit of a swift rabbit, ducking and weaving and circling around each other in a state of absolute joy. They were ¾ of the way there (while I was still ¼ ) when we realised that Brutus (the Bandycoot’s ute) was heading straight for us. Indie came back when I called, but Jazzie  was having so much fun that she ran alongside the vehicle gazing up at the Bandycoot through the open window, grinning from ear to ear.

They day before, Jazzie had decided to roll in something particularly ripe and earned herself an evening bath (a rare treat) and a dry off by the fireplace. They seem to find all sorts of smelly things to roll in here, and are getting three times as many baths as they used to get before. Indie is quite hilarious after her bath a she loves to run and roll and twist and dig into her cushion for ages.

I have started cleaning their teeth, on the vet’s recommendation, which is quite an interesting experience. They really don’t like being touched around their mouth and their jaws lock up tight. I don’t think I would have any success at except that the toothpaste is chicken flavoured and they open up their mouths in anticipation of a tasty treat.

Pups out exploring with the Bandycoot

 

Day 56 - Putting on a good show

Today was the first time I’ve really taken the pups for a proper stroll around town in Wynyard. It’s a very pet friendly town and they had a great time sniffing around where lots of other dogs must have made their mark. In their cute winter coats they got quite a few pats from some of the lovely old ladies we met in the street, which is one of their favourite things and really made them smile.

The reason we were out and strolling about, was that we were waiting for the Bandycoot (my boyfriend) to come out of the doctors’ surgery with the news of his test result. He was in there for quite a while and I was starting to get worried. He came out with a printout from the doctor with so many medical terms I’d need a medical degree to understand, except for the last sentence which recommended hasty removal of some skin from his face which had a suspicious mole. He took it well and had already scheduled the appointment for the procedure. I guess I shouldn’t really be surprised as he has, what I like to refer to as, ‘Viking skin’. So fair and really not suited to the harsh Aussie sun.

That night I started a new challenge, to put together the exercise bike I bought out shopping the other night. I’d been looking for a second-hand bike for ages, online and at garage sales, but apparently they’re hot property down here in Tassie. I’m not really a fan of flat-pack technical assembly and the directions were very open to interpretation. However, I now have no excuse not to at least try and stay fit during the chilly Tassie winter, as I have a fully functional exercise bike which only needed minimal Bandycoot input to make it go.

Day 55 - Still cold (escape from Alapacatraz)

This morning at 7am it was -1 degree…brrrr!! I recently ordered a long sleeve thermal and a down jacket and have now also ordered more winter stuff, as I’ve been wearing them a lot and winter has only just begun!

The one thing I do love about this cold change is the clear skies. I can see for miles out to the mountain ranges in the distance and the sparkly stars in the Milky Way at night. While writing this a spectacular rainbow has appeared outside my window, with such vivid colours while a misty rain falls.

 

As the alpacas usually start their morning grazing at the grass at the back fence, I thought it strange that I hadn’t seen them as I was hanging out washing on the line (ever the optimist hoping to get things dry). I decided to take a quick look around their usual haunts and couldn’t spot them anywhere. I really started to stress when I realized that the back gate to our yard had been left ajar, as the ‘pacas could have strolled straight through our back yard and out on the road. I imagined them miles down the road, getting in to the forestry reserves and having a grassy banquet. I ran into the house loudly declaring an alpaca escape!!

The Bandycoot assured me that they wouldn’t have got out and may have just been hiding behind some of the bigger trees, or be down in the old mine railway track cutting. Even he started to get worried when we scoured the whole paddock with no sign.  He took off on his dirt bike and came back in about 10mins after spotting them in the next paddock. I jumped on the back of the bike, even though it’s not really build for a passenger and we ended up chasing the alpacas around the farm on the motorbike. They were actually pretty good to direct as they always play follow the leader. I ended up with a bit of a sore butt from bouncing around on the back of the bike through the dips and bumps but was quite pleased I didn’t get bounced off!